Frederick g



y 7 F.y G. PHELPS SELF CONFORMING STRAW HAT Filed Nov. lo, 1924 Patented May l?, i927.9

UNITED i sri/ares PATENT OFFICE..

FREDERICK G. PHELPS, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

SELF-CNFRMING STRAW HAT.

Application filed November 10, 1924. Serial No. 748,844.

'lhepresent invention relates broadly to hats and more especially to a straw hat adapted to be self-conforming to the head of the wearer.

4lli-leretofore in the art, flexibility in still straw hats has been obtained in two general ways. @ne way has been to manufacture the crown and `brim of the hat of stillA straw, such as serrait straw, and in the Zone comprising the conjuncture between the brim and the crown, the side wall of the crown of the hat has been made of straw which in itself is flexible per se, that is, a dill'erent character of straw, such as milan straw braid, used in this zone; or the straw may be of the same quality as the brim and crown excepting that it is of smaller size to obtain a finer weave, which weave of itself is more flexible than the wall of the crown or the brim. Flexibility is obtained in this prior art type of hat by considerable additional expense. In making these prior art hats, the operator must stop and choose braids of different types to sew together to make up the hats and must either adjust the sewing mechanism to operate upon the different kinds of braids; or where entirely distinctive types of braids (such as the ordinary sennit braid is used for the crown and milan 3o braid is used for the head zone) different machines must be used for the sewing. This adds to the cost and slows up manufacture.

Another type of stiff hats with flexible head Zones has long been known in the art by making the entire head of one kind of braid, such as sennit braid, and then leaving the portion adjacen the conjuncture of the crown and the brim, i. e., the head Contact zone, substantially free from glue or stiftening material.

The difficulty with both of these prior art structures is that such a hat is lacking in supporting` strength against forces applied downwardly to the crown. Such forces tend to cause a telescoping action or deform ing action in the fiexible zone area, because of the lack of resistance against vertical forces applied on the crown. Furthermore, such prior art hats tend to lose their shape in the flexible area, and even though this area is partly covered by the hat ribbon or band, the deforming efl'ect spreads to the side wall of' the crown and the hat loses its trim appearance. s

The present invention comprises an improvenient upon the latter type prior art hats in which the hat is formed of a single kind of straw braid, and withl the head bearing zone mistiil'ened by glue or the like. ln the present invention, the strength of the vertical wall of the `crown is obtained by an additional member which gives the necessary strength in a vertical direction without decreasing the flexibility of thc vertical wall in a lateral direction. rllhis yadditional member may be a. band of plaited straw which permits of limited circumferential expansion in the iexible zone. rl`he present invention thereby combines the advantages both in economy and structure of the unstiifened unitary kind of straw braid type hat and overcomes the faults of this type of hat as constructed in the past.

My invention may be carried out in many ways, but preferably is carried out by rnak- 1 ing the entire hat of one type of braid and introducing` a supporting` member overv the area of flexibility at the head contacting zone; then stiffeningby suitable material, the crown and the brim except the zone which is to be flexible. ln the preferred fornnthis stiffening member comprises a single wide braid of straw which is sewed as a cylindrical band on the inside of the hat and over the Zone of flexibility so that the lower edge ofthe braid extends out slightly over the side of the stiff flatbrim and the upper edge of this supporting braid extends over and is secured to the stiftened side wall of the crown of the hat. `Where this supporting braid is on the inside of the hat it not onlyhas the advantage of permitting all of' the lateral flexibility and supporting the crown side wall against telescoping or lengthwise forces, but it also covers the tips or edges of the straw braid adjacent the head contacting zone and leaves avery smooth surface to support the inside leather or sweat band thereby making a comfortable hat. Furthermore, this reenforcing braid permits the use of a lesser total amount of glue or stiffening means per hat, thereby insuring an economy in this particular. This type of hat is extremely flexible and easy on the head, and produces a smooth heady bearing surface which cannot be obtained where the interior surface of the head bearing Zone comprises the edges of a plurality of rows of braids sewed together, as has been the prior art custom.

In view of the foregoing, the principal object of the present invention is a self-conforming stiff straw hat in which the hat is preferably formed of a single typeof straw and. in .which a flexible zone is provided adjacent the juncture of the brim and the crown; which zone is reenforced tonsustain the side wall of the crown without destroying the lateral flexibility of the head conforming zone.

Another object of the present invention is a straw hatl in which the head conforming zone is flexible, with a portion of the crown sidewalls stilfcned'and'with a supporting member extending from the stiffened side wall over the flexible zone.

A still further object of the present invention is a straw hat in which the head conforming' zone is covered with a single wide braid of small straw.

Anotherl object of the present invention is a straw hat in which the lower side wall of the crown and the inner portion of the brim are flexible and with a smooth circular band of single straw braid constructed to extend over the flexible portion. of lthe brim and over the flexible portion'of the crown.

Other and further objects of the'present invention will inpart be obvious and will in partbe pointed outliereinafter in the speciication following` by reference to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this ap lication. 'y

if ig. l of the drawings illustrates a hat embodying the preferred form of the present invention with a portion of the hat broken away to better illustrate the construction.

Fig. 2 is a sectional view Ithrough a portion of the head contacting zoney and illustrates lthe'preferred way of arranging and securing a flexible straw braid on the hat according to my invention.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 2 in which the `sweat band and ribbon Aare shown in place.

Referring `now more especially to4 the drawings, thehat preferablylv comprises Ya crown portion l and a brim portionv 2, both of which may be formed vof a single type of straw braid, or if desired, various types may be utilized for purposes of ornamentation or ventilation.

The crown l of the hat is Vpreferably stiffened to a point substantially7 adjacent the arrow A in the figures and the brim Q is stiflened to a point adjacent the arrow B. The head conforming Zone between the arrows A and B is unstilfened except for suoli slight amount of stiffeningglueas may accidentally work into this portion during the fabrication of the hat. In the stiifen* ing operation, the hat is preferably imniersed in a Vstilfening bath through a floating board provided with an opening through which the crown of the hat may be extended. This leaves a portion of the crown adjacent the brim unimmersedin the stiftening solution. The brim is stiil'ened by being passed through a slot in a suitable floating board so that while the edge of the hat is innnersed in the solution, a narrow Zone adjacent the crownis not immersed. rlhe glue cements the over lapping braids together wherethey are sewed and so when the glue is dried this glued portion of the hat is not only stillfened but the rows of braid are actually glued together to present a substantially continuous side wall. Now in the narrow imglued zone theA braids are held together only by the sewing threads and the braids are thereforeniore or less 'free to move relatively to each other thereby securing flexibility but this Ione is weak unless properly reenforced.

A single wide supporting braid 4 is lsewed to the hat over the unstilfenedzone between the arrows A and B, with the upper edge of 'this singe braid extending substantially to the stili Aside wall of the crown and the lower edge of this single width straw braid is preferably sewed to the brim at substantially the inner limit of the stiifened portion thereof. rlhis singlewidth strip of braid, or the like is preferably*formed of narrow [lat straws which provide a `very smooth surface that covers the rough inner edges of rows 5 of straw b aid from which the hat is made and also provide a braid of considerable strength against crushing forces applied to the edges of the braid.

The hat is self-conforming, not only in the sense that it can readily change shape to conform'to the shape of the wearerls head, but also in theI sense that it can undergo a certain amount of circumferential expansion to conform to the size of the wearer`s head. lt will be noted that the band of straw l is soplaited that the strips of straw lie at an angle to a horizontal plane passing through the crown of thehat, and hence this band may slightly expand circumferentially or "lengthen in much the same manner as astrip of cloth cut on the bias. This circiunferential expansibility of the band -l not interfered with by the stitching` at the edges of the band. The expansion will take place primarily in a Zone just above the bottom ofthe crown, e. g. in the vicinity of the lower leader for numeral Ll in Fig. and expansion in such a .Gaone does not necessitate an increase in the total length of the rows of stitching at the edges' of the band l-lowcver,A the rows of stitcning are themselves somewhat expansible. The thread in the rowsvof stitching lies in a configuration such as would be obtained placing a series of ninneral Ss end to l; and the material in the loops of thread is yielding enough to permit Athe loops to collapse slightly and let the rows of stitching lengthen after the manner of lazy tongs. Also the thread of the st-itchingis .itself stretchable to a slight extent. This construction produces a very comfortable hat to wear, without substantial cost to manuiliacture.

After the hat is completed and blocked, the sweat band 6 is sewed in position over the smooth wide braid 5, in the usual manner ot attaching sweat bands and the ribbon 7 is attached to the outside of the crown portion of the hat in accordance with well known practice. The straw which is visible trom the upper portion ot the hat preterably is ot one character and weave instead of dil'lercnt types ot weaves which are essential to the old type hats referred to in connection with the prior art, however, do not `limit the present invention toa single type straw hat, because various types and kinds ot' straw may be used for ornamentation or ventilation without departing from the scope ont this invention Having thus described my invention, what ll claim is Il. As an article of manufacture, a straw hat having a stili'ened crown portion, a stift'- ened brim, and a flexible zone comprising the conjoncture of the crown and the brim, in combination with a single wide braid oit straw extending circumferentially oi the hat and overlyiing` the tiexible Zone, said braid being attached to the inside of the crown and to the bottom ot the brim to provide a rei-tical support for the flexible side wall ol' said crown.

2. As an article ot manufacture, a straw hat cm'nprising crown and brim portions iol-med trom overlapping rows of straw braid sewed together, the braid being of the same type throughout the crown and brim portions, a straw under brim sewed to said brim portion, the hat having an unsti'iened zone which includes the conjuncture oit the brim and crown and the remainder oi' the brim and crown being impregnated with stitifening material, and a ilexible smooth band ot line plaited straw having one edge sewed to the stiltened portion of the under brim and the other edge sewed to the stil-f'- encd portion of the crown, the band extending from the lower side ot' the brim upwardly within the crown to strengthen and reentorce the unstitlened Zone ot the hat.

is an article of manufacture, a straw hat comprising crown and brim portions termed trom overlapping rows ot straw braid sewed together, the braid being of the same `type throughout the crown and brim portions, the hat having an unstitiened zone which includes the conjuncture of the brim and. crown and the remainder of the brim and crown being impregnated with stitl'ening material, and a flexible smooth band of line plaited straw having one edge sewed to the stili'ened portion of the brim and the other edge sewed to the stiliened portion ot the crown, the band extending from the lower side of the brim upwardly within the crown tostrengthen and reenforce the unstiti'ened zone of the hat.

l. A straw hat made from one type of braid throughout the brim and crown and comprising an unstittened Zone which includes the yconjuncture of -the brim and crown, the remainder ot' the brim and crown being impregnated with stili'ening material; and a smooth band ot line plaitedstraw extending over the unstiiiiened Zone, said band being attached to the stilened portion ot the brim and to the stilifened portion 'of the crown.

5. i straw hat made from one type ol braid throughout the brim and crown and comprising an unstitfened Zone which includes the conjuncture of the brim and crown, the remainder of the brim and crown being impregnated with stift'ening material, and a smooth reenorcing band extending over the unstil'l'ened Zone on the interior ot the hat, said band being capable of circumferential expansion and being attached to the stiti'ened portion of the brim and to the stitl'ened portion ot the crown.

6. As an article of manufacture; a straw hat having brim and crown portions impregnated with stiliening material, the stitiened brim and crown portions being separated by an unstiitened zone which includes the conjuncture of the brim and crown; and a flexible smooth band of soft material having one edge attached to the stiti'ened portion of the brim and the other edge attached to the sti'ened portion of the crown, said band extending from the lower side ot the brim upwardly within the crown to strengthen and reentorce the unstiliened zone of the hat.

7. As an article of manufacture; a straw hat having brim and crown portions impregnated with stiliening material, the stiltened brim and crown portions being separated by an unstittened Zone which includes the conjuncture ot' the brim and crown; and a flexible smooth band of sott material having one edOe attached to the stitfened portion of the 2brim and the other edge attached to the stidened portion of the crown, said band extending from the lower side of the brim upwardly within the crown to strengthen and Vreentorce the unstiened zone of the hat, the portion of said band which overlies the conjuncture of the brim and crown being unsecured to the hat.

FREDERICK Gr. PlELPS.y

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